When you ask someone where they want to go on holiday Montenegro is probably nowhere near the top of the list and I’d be lying if I said it was for me. So it is no surprise this trip was not a product of my bucket list nor of seeing trending Tik Toks telling me it is an underrated place to go. This trip happened solely by stumbling across a £30 return flight on google. It certainly turned out to be a value for money trip though and one I’d recommend for others.
Location – Eastern Mediterranean
Currency – Euro
Card – widely accepted, ATMs charge for withdrawals
Language – Montenegrin, Serbian, Croatian, Bosnian, English widely understood
Transport – buses connect most major cities and tourist spots but hiring a car allows for far more freedom and flexibility
Cost – very affordable; our whole trip cost me just £370 all in
The Basics
Main airport – Podgorica (cheaper) , Tivat (more convenient)
How long to stay – a few days is enough to experience the best bits of the Adriatic coast and a week enough to see all the country has to offer
When to visit – with a lot of the best activities relying on good weather and some even closing completely for the winter I would plan visits between May and August just to be safe
Where to stay – Kotor is a great place to stay if you’re looking to explore the coastline as it is cheaper than, but still close to, both Tivat and Budva. It is also the most scenic destination and waking up to the views across the bay every morning is a delight. The west side of the bay is less touristic and cheaper. However, the road leading there is treacherous at best so be prepared for a tight squeeze between the houses and waterfront.
Our trip
The first day of our holiday was largely dominated by travel. We flew from Gatwick to Podgorica early enough that we landed at just 10am. With how small the airport is, we flew through customs and were able to pick up a sim card and our hire car in well under an hour.
We wasted no time in getting on the road and heading up into the mountains on our way to the hotel. After a heatwave the week before we were baffled as we drove through what felt like a snow storm for a while before eventually breaking through to the sunshine as we hit the Adriatic coast. The road down certainly felt like something out of a Top Gear special as we twisted and turned down the mountainside taking in views out over Budva and the coastline.
We checked into our hotel just after lunch and took a couple hours to settle in and catch up on some sleep before heading out to explore the old town and find somewhere to eat. We found a small restaurant and shared an almost 2 kilo fresh caught fish which our server even filleted at our table.
Our second day was our only day of good weather and we made the most of it! By lunch we had already hiked all the way up to the ruins of the old Fortress. Built in the 14th century the keep itself was ruins but the walls leading up the mountainside seemed somehow intact. Once at the top the views of the bay were incredible and well worth the 84 flights of steep cobbled stairs that led there. This outing took up most of our energy and so we spent the afternoon taking a far more relaxing speed boat tour around the bay.
Our first stop was ‘Our lady of the rocks’ – a church built on an artificial island; supposedly made by the intentional sinking of a huge number of rocks and boats by seamen to create a suitable place of worship after finding an icon of Madonna and child on a rock in the bay. The story behind the island, told by our eccentric guide, was quite interesting but the island itself nothing spectacular. We then passed out of the bay towards the Mediterranean; stopping at an abandoned soviet union submarine tunnel made during world war 2 and used in the filming of James Bond. Once out of the bay we stopped at Mamula fort; used as a prison by Yugoslavia but now converted into a super luxury hotel by an Egyptian born billionaire. Our final stop on the tour was the blue caves where the water is so clear and blue that anyone swimming in them looks no different to the characters in avatar or the smurfs.
Our third and final day saw rain and clouds return and so we were forced into a more relaxed day. We chose to drive across to the nearby city of Tivat to wander around Porto Montenegro. This felt more like going to a different country or era rather than just popping to the next town along the coast. We went from cobbled alleyways winding through the old town of Kotor to a luxurious modern port filled with multi million pound super yachts, designer shopping and fine dining. The type of place where the streets are filled with water features and greenery wrapped in LED lights and the average apartment here selling for upwards of a million Euros. Despite this there are some incredible restaurants with views across the marina for very reasonable prices.
What didn't we do?
With the duration and time of year we went it was impossible for us to do everything Montenegro has to offer so here are some things we didn’t do:
- Durmitor national Park – This national park is the home of some incredible nature and scenery but also is the adventure capital of Montenegro. In addition to the usual hiking and biking you find in most national parks Durmitor is also home to white water rafting and one of the best zip lines in the world. At over a kilometer long, reaching over one of the deepest canyons in the world and achieving speeds of over 80km/h this is definitely an experience for any thrill seeker. You can even race a friend across the canyon on parallel ziplines.
- Budva – home to some of the best beaches and clubs in the country Budva is definitely worth a visit for a relaxing day or a great night out
- Skodar national Park – home to the biggest lake in the Balkans and one of the best bird reserves in Europe. You may have even seen Tik Toks of people kayaking through the huge areas of lily pads which dominate areas of the lake.
- Kotor Cable car – if you don’t fancy spending your holiday hiking you can simply pay to ride the cable car to the top of the mountains surrounding the bay and enjoy the panoramic views.
The perfect Montenegro Itinerary
- Day 1 – Arrive in Podgorica and drive north to Durmitor national park. Spend the first day getting settled in and completing the short hike to the Crno lake; known for its black appearance.
- Day 2 – This is the day for adventure; go white water rafting and race a friend across the Tara canyon zip lines
- Day 3 – Time to leave the national park and drive across to the Adriatic coast. Stay one night in Kotor bay where you’ll wander around the charming old town and relax with some of the best wine tasting in Montenegro
- Day 4 – make the short journey to Tivat where you can take the cable car 1300 meters above see level to take in breathtaking views of the coastline and all of its bays. Spend the evening relaxing in Porto Montenegro and awe at the incredible yachts on show
- Day 5 – Travel further down the coast to Budva where you can relax during the day at a beach club with cocktail in hand and spend the night time partying through clubs and casinos.
- Day 6 – Time to wind down again as we come back inland to the Skdar lake national park. Kayak through the water lilies and watch out for the 300 bird species that inhabit here along the way.
- Day 7 – Time to end the holiday where it started; flying home from Podgorica airport.
