Popoyo Travel Guide: Surfing, Beaches & Things to Do

/ Home / By

Popoyo is a tiny surf town on Nicaragua’s Pacific coast, where days revolve around surfing, beach volleyball, good coffee and watching the waves roll in. Whether you’re an experienced surfer chasing bigger breaks or a beginner looking to spend a few days learning, Popoyo offers an incredibly relaxed alternative to some of Central America’s busier backpacker destinations.

I spent six nights in Popoyo and could quite easily have stayed longer. Between the affordable surfing, friendly local restaurants, social hostels and beautiful stretches of sand, it’s one of those places where doing very little somehow becomes the perfect way to spend your time.

If you’re planning a trip to Nicaragua, here’s everything you need to know about visiting Popoyo, including where to stay, the best things to do, surfing, nightlife and getting there.

Popoyo, Nicaragua: Quick Facts

  • Best for: Surfing, beach life, remote working and slowing down.
  • Recommended stay: 2–7 nights, depending on how much you surf.
  • Best time to visit: November to April is generally the dry season.
  • Getting around: Walking. Almost everything is within 20 minutes.
  • Best hostel: Big Surf House.
  • Best café: Kooks Café.
  • Nightlife: Mostly relaxed, with the Saturday Popoyo Secret beach party as the main event.
  • Top experience: Surfing Beginners Bay followed by sunset volleyball and a swim in the Pacific.

Contents

What is Popoyo like?

Popoyo is small. Really small. You can pretty much forget about renting a moped or worrying about transport because the furthest you’ll need to walk is around 20 minutes. It’s a tiny coastal village where life revolves around the beach and the handful of hostels, cafés and restaurants dotted around it.

The beach itself is an absolute picture. From the back of the hostel, it’s only around 40 metres of beautiful golden sand before you reach the Pacific Ocean. Beyond that, the waves barrel towards the shore practically all day long.

There’s something almost mesmerising about sitting in one of the hammocks, watching the waves repeatedly smash into the sand with the sun gleaming off the water. It’s the sort of view that makes you forget what day it is, let alone what you were supposed to be doing.

Popoyo has a slightly different feel to some of the other backpacker destinations in Nicaragua. It’s less concentrated hostel culture and more of a small, quiet surf town. Quite a few of the hostels aren’t listed on Hostelworld, so the usual Hostelworld group chats aren’t quite as useful when most of the people staying in the area aren’t using them.

That said, I stayed at Big Surf House, which had enough people and the right combination of facilities and atmosphere to create a genuinely sociable environment. A group of us ended up spending most days together, whether surfing, playing volleyball or heading out for food.

Best things to do in Popoyo

1. Go surfing at Beginners Bay

Unsurprisingly, surfing is the main attraction in Popoyo. There are several good breaks around the area, catering to different abilities and offering opportunities to get in the water at different points throughout the day.

I surfed most days during my stay, hiring a board and heading straight into Beginners Bay.

As the name suggests, this is a particularly good spot for beginners and lower-intermediate surfers. There are waves of different sizes depending on how far out you paddle, so you can gradually work your way towards bigger sets as your confidence improves.

One of the things I particularly liked about Beginners Bay was how manageable it was to get out the back. The way the waves form in the bay meant you could paddle around the breaking waves and then into the sets, rather than having to battle directly through them as you sometimes do at other surf spots.

Even on days when the more experienced surfers were heading further out, Beginners Bay still had waves that were several feet high, so there was plenty to keep me occupied.

There are surfboard rental shops and instructors available around the bay, making it relatively straightforward to get started. If you’ve never surfed before, I’d recommend getting an instructor rather than simply hiring a board. There isn’t really a dedicated whitewash-only section, so having somebody show you the ropes is worthwhile.

A word of caution about the currents

Popoyo is also where I encountered my first proper rip current.

I was paddling out when I suddenly realised that, despite paddling as hard as I could, I was moving further away from the shore. Before long, I’d been carried a considerable distance out to sea.

Thankfully, a local surfer came out and helped me get back to shore, but it was a genuinely frightening experience and definitely knocked my confidence in the water.

We ended up heading back towards the shore through the middle of the bay. The local explained that the current was weaker there, whereas I had initially assumed it would be strongest in the centre.

This is not something to rely on as general advice. Rip currents are unpredictable, and conditions and exit routes change. Always speak to local surfers or instructors about the conditions before getting into the water, and know what to do if you’re caught in a current.

2. Watch the more experienced surfers

Even if you’re nowhere near ready for the bigger breaks, it’s worth taking some time to watch the more experienced surfers.

There’s a point break between the hostels and Beginners Bay where many of the better surfers head out. Watching people carve up those waves is fantastic entertainment in itself.

I particularly liked that it was right on the way back from Beginners Bay. You could spend an hour catching your own little waves and then walk back past the point break, watching people surf at a completely different level.

It’s a nice reminder of how much there is still to learn and gives you something to aspire to.

3. Sunset beach volleyball

If there’s one activity that perfectly sums up my time in Popoyo, it’s sunset volleyball.

There’s something about a game of volleyball on the sand as the sun goes down, followed by a run straight into the ocean to cool off, that makes you question why you ever bother doing anything else.

It’s simple, social and one of those activities that can easily turn into the highlight of your day.

Between surfing in the morning, spending the afternoon relaxing and heading down for volleyball in the evening, it’s difficult to imagine a much better beach-town routine.

4. Spend some time at Kooks Café

Popoyo has a surprisingly good remote-working scene for such a small village.

Kooks Café was my favourite example of this. They served fantastic food and coffee, and importantly, had reliable Wi-Fi.

From what I could see, they were also actively developing the remote-working side of their business, with co-working spaces and rooms being advertised for longer stays.

If you’re travelling with a laptop and looking for somewhere to spend a few hours working, Kooks is well worth checking out.

5. Enjoy a hostel lobster barbecue

One of the food highlights of my stay was a lobster barbecue at Big Surf House. It was part of one of the hostel’s BBQ evenings, where everyone got together for food and drinks. The lobster was unbelievably good and definitely one of my favourite meals in Nicaragua.

eating bbq lobster on the beach at the hostel

Where to stay in Popoyo

Big Surf House

Big Surf House is where I stayed, and it’s an easy recommendation.

It’s one of the relatively few hostels in Popoyo listed on Hostelworld and has capacity for around 40 people. That makes it one of the better options if you’re travelling solo and want to meet other backpackers.

The combination of good food, facilities, atmosphere and central location made it a particularly enjoyable place to stay.

More importantly, it had the right balance of people to create a genuinely social environment without feeling like a full-on party hostel.

We had a group of us spending most days together, whether heading out surfing, playing volleyball or going for food.

Where to eat and drink in Popoyo

Despite its tiny size, Popoyo has a good selection of local restaurants, many serving excellent food at reasonable prices.

One thing that stood out to me was just how friendly the staff were. We went out as a group of around 12 one evening, and the restaurant staff were brilliant at accommodating us, splitting bills, keeping drinks topped up and generally looking after everyone.

I actually tried to find the restaurant on Google Maps afterwards but couldn’t locate it. That probably tells you something about just how small and low-key this village still feels.

Alongside the local restaurants, Kooks Café is well worth a visit for breakfast, coffee or lunch, particularly if you’re looking for somewhere with reliable Wi-Fi.

And if you’re staying at Big Surf House, keep an eye out for one of its barbecue evenings. The lobster was a particular highlight of mine.

Hostel dorm in nicaragua

Nightlife and Popoyo Secret

Popoyo isn’t really a nightlife destination in the traditional sense. Most evenings are fairly relaxed, with hostel activities such as pool tournaments, barbecue nights and socialising over a few drinks. If you’re expecting a big selection of bars and clubs, you’ll probably be disappointed. There is, however, one notable exception: Popoyo Secret.

Popoyo Secret beach party

Popoyo Secret is a weekly beach party held every Saturday. The concept is pretty cool. You buy a ticket online, get picked up by a bus and are driven to a supposedly secret location on the beach. Of course, the location is now on Google Maps, which takes away some of the mystery! Once there, you’ll find two stages playing different styles of music. One is more relaxed, while the other is home to the infamous ‘Boiler Room’. The Boiler Room is particularly cool. It’s essentially a little rave room that feels like a proper club, until you remember you’re actually dancing inside a DIY shack on a beach in Nicaragua. It gets seriously hot in there, but that’s arguably part of the experience. The music changes considerably throughout the night, with travelling DJs regularly playing sets. You can go from one hour to the next and find yourself listening to something completely different, but the music was consistently good during my visit. I wouldn’t necessarily plan an entire trip to Popoyo around the party, but it’s definitely worth going if you’re already in the area. In fact, it works particularly well with the usual Nicaragua backpacking route. Ometepe, where the famous Wet Wednesday hostel event takes place, is the stop immediately before Popoyo on my recommended Nicaragua itinerary. If you time your visit to Ometepe around Wet Wednesday, there’s a good chance your onward journey to Popoyo will line up with the Saturday night party.
the sunset at popoyo secret party

How to get around Popoyo

Getting around Popoyo couldn’t be much easier. The village is tiny, and virtually everything you’ll need is within walking distance. Whether you’re heading to Beginners Bay, grabbing a coffee at Kooks or going out for dinner, there’s no real reason to hire a moped. Most of the hostels, restaurants and surf spots are concentrated around the beach, making it easy to explore on foot.

How to get to Popoyo

Getting from Ometepe to Popoyo

I originally planned to make this journey using public transport, but ended up taking a slightly different route after meeting another traveller at Rai’n Dance who had arranged a private taxi. We shared a quad bike to the port, caught the ferry across to the mainland and had a taxi waiting for us on the other side. From there, we were taken directly to our hostel in Popoyo. I contributed some money towards the arrangement, although I can’t remember the exact amount. It’s worth knowing that this is an option if you happen to meet other travellers making the same journey. Sharing transport can make the otherwise slightly awkward journey considerably easier. For more detail on the different transport options around the country, see my guide to getting around Nicaragua.

Getting from Popoyo to Costa Rica

Leaving Popoyo for Costa Rica was another occasion where travelling as a group worked in our favour. There isn’t a direct chicken bus from Popoyo, so our original plan was to arrange a taxi to take us to a point where we could pick up public transport. However, there were four of us travelling south, so we negotiated a price with a taxi driver to take us directly to the Costa Rican border instead. We split the fare between the four of us, making it a much more straightforward journey than navigating multiple public transport connections. After crossing the border, we continued our journey through Costa Rica using public buses. If you’re making the same journey, I’d recommend asking around your hostel to see whether anyone else is heading south. Having a few people to share a taxi with can make a considerable difference to the cost and convenience.

How long should you spend in Popoyo?

This really depends on whether you’re surfing. If you’re simply passing through Nicaragua and want to experience the beach, enjoy a few good meals and have a go at surfing, two or three nights could be enough. However, if you’re a keen surfer, it’s very easy to spend a week or even a fortnight here. The variety of breaks, relaxed atmosphere and affordable surfing make it a particularly easy place to settle into a routine. I spent six nights in Popoyo and could comfortably have stayed longer. It’s one of those destinations where you don’t necessarily need a packed itinerary. You wake up, surf, grab some food, relax in a hammock, play volleyball and repeat. Sometimes that’s all you need.

Is Popoyo worth visiting?

Absolutely, particularly if you’re looking for somewhere to slow down during your Nicaragua backpacking trip. Popoyo doesn’t have the extensive hostel culture of León or the colonial architecture of Granada. It isn’t packed with activities, and there isn’t much in the way of nightlife outside of the occasional party. What it does have is a beautiful beach, fantastic surfing, friendly locals, good food and a lifestyle that’s incredibly easy to fall in love with. For me, the combination of morning surf sessions, sunset volleyball, swimming in the Pacific and spending time with a great group of people made Popoyo one of the most enjoyable stops on my Nicaragua trip. It’s not somewhere I’d necessarily recommend rushing through. Give yourself a few days, get in the water and enjoy the slower pace of life. You might find yourself staying longer than planned.

Frequently Asked Questions about Popoyo, Nicaragua

Is Popoyo worth visiting?

Yes. Popoyo is particularly worthwhile for surfers, beach lovers and backpackers looking to slow down. It has excellent surf, friendly local restaurants and a relaxed atmosphere.

How many days do you need in Popoyo?

Two or three days is enough for a short visit, but surfers could easily spend a week or two exploring the different breaks. I spent six nights.

Is Popoyo good for beginner surfers?

Yes. Beginners Bay is a good option for beginner and lower-intermediate surfers, with waves of varying sizes. Complete beginners should consider booking an instructor.

Do you need a moped in Popoyo?

No. Popoyo is very small, and almost everything is within a 20-minute walk.

Does Popoyo have nightlife?

Popoyo has a fairly relaxed nightlife scene, with hostel events and social evenings rather than conventional bars and clubs. The main exception is Popoyo Secret, a weekly Saturday beach party.

Where is the best place to stay in Popoyo?

Big Surf House is a good choice for solo travellers and backpackers looking for a sociable hostel with good facilities, food and a central location.

Can you work remotely from Popoyo?

Yes. Kooks Café offers reliable Wi-Fi, good coffee and food, alongside developing co-working and longer-stay accommodation options.

When is the best time to visit Popoyo?

Nicaragua’s Pacific coast generally has a dry season from November to April. Surf conditions vary throughout the year, so it’s worth checking local forecasts and speaking to surf schools before planning around particular conditions. If you’re continuing your journey through Nicaragua, explore the rest of my Nicaragua travel guide, including practical advice on planning your itinerary, where to stay and how much to budget.
Verified by MonsterInsights